Selasa, 15 November 2016

Adventures in Macanese Cuisine

Adventures in Macanese CuisineFor maximum flavor and freshness, it is ideal to have fresh herbs growing in the garden or some potted plants in the house. However, this is not always doable, so many resort to buying herbs at local supermarkets and farmers’ markets. Most herbs keep for at least 5 days if stored properly; first, any large amounts of moisture should be removed, and then should be wrapped in a damp paper towel and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Many aromatics such as ginger and shallots can be stored for up to a month in a dry airy place, such as a basket on the counter, while others are best kept wrapped in the refrigerator. 

BURDOCK ROOT (ARCTIUM LAPPA): Known as gobo in Japanese, and related to the artichoke, burdock is a crisp root vegetable, slender and brownskinned with an off-white-colored flesh and a mild, earthy flavor. It is available year-round. Look for burdock that is firm in texture, as when it gets old it can be shriveled and limp. When preparing, wash and peel the skin and because burdock also discolors easily, prepare a bowl of water so that all prepped and cut portions can be kept refreshed in the bowl. Store burdock in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. It will keep for several months.

CHILLIS, DRIED (CAPSICUM ANNUUM ): The fruit of plants from the genus Capsicum, native to South and Central America, chillies are members of the nightshade family. The substance that gives chilli peppers their fiery intensity is capsaicin, which is measured in Scoville units, ranging from 0 up to 2 million! As such a staple in regional cuisines, it is surprising to realize that it was unknown in tropical Asia until it was introduced by the Portuguese in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. The chilli is found in an incredible variety of colors, sizes, and flavors in different parts of the world. We at Fat Rice are chilli maniacs. We use all kinds of chillies under the sun. We even have our farmers grow us hundreds of pounds of piri piri peppers every season to make our own chilli sambal (thanks, Pete!). For your purposes we have identified some common chillies for you to use throughout this book and divided them into categories fresh and dried. Dried chillies are a staple flavoring for many of the dishes that we cook at Fat Rice. They add thickening power, aroma, flavor, and of course, heat, baby, heat! We use both whole flaked and powdered forms. The drying process intensifies and gives chillies a concentrated fruity flavor. We typically remove the seeds from whole chilli peppers before use. We use common dried chillis, aka Chinese red peppers or Tianjin peppers; they are pinky sized and available at Asian grocers. Cayenne pepper powder (extra-hot chilli pepper powder) gives a kick without a ton of flavor and coarse korean chilli flakes give color and thickening power to sambals and curries.

CHILLIS, FRESH (CAPSICUM ANNUUM ): When buying fresh, be sure to look for chillies that are firm, shiny, dry, and heavy for their size. Store fresh chillies wrapped in paper towels in the refrigerator for up to a week. When preparing chillies it is usually wise to wear gloves to protect any sensitive areas from the painful capsaicin within. We typically do not remove the seeds when we are working with fresh chillies in our recipes. If you prefer to have less heat, we suggest removing the seeds before using. For the purposes of this book, when referring to fresh chillies we provide two categories: “not-so-hot” and “smoking hot.” Fresh “not-so-hot” chillies (around 50,000 units on the Scoville scale) for the most part, are used raw and thinly sliced, to garnish dishes, and are very palatable. They add a nice fresh chilli heat and a vibrant color. Look for fresno, fresh cayenne, or Holland finger chillies. Fresh “smoking hot” chillies (100,000+ units on the Scoville scale) offer some serious heat and are usually cooked and used for sauces and marinades. Typically, we like Thai bird, malagueta, and piri piri, which are all relatively interchangeable. For extra hotness, we use habaneros which are the kick in our Crazy Squid Rice. 

CHRISTMAS BASIL (OCIMUM BASILICUM): A hybrid of Thai and Genovese varieties, deep green leaves and large purple blooms; they have a slightly spicy bite and a unique fennel seed aroma. If you can’t find this variety, Thai basil is a perfectly fine substitute and can be found in Southeast Asian markets.

CURRY LEAF (MURRAYA KOENIGII SPRENG): The leaf of an evergreen native to India and Sri Lanka, this plant is part of the citrus family. These small, shiny, oval-pointed leaves are used in India and neighboring countries to impart distinctive flavors to curries and vegetable dishes. Curry leaves must be bloomed in hot oil until they “pop” to release their unique fragrance. Buy curry leaves fresh at Indian and Southeast Asian grocers and store them wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

GALANGAL (ALPINIA GALANGA): This member of the ginger family native to Indonesia has a unique pungency and bite much different than that of common ginger. Galangal is used in rempah (Malaysian fresh curry paste). Fresh galangal is available in Southeast Asian markets. Look for galangal that is plump, with smooth pale pink tips and tight skin, and free of mold. Fresh galangal will keep refrigerated for a couple of weeks wrapped in a paper towel. When preparing galangal, it does not need to be peeled.

GINGER (ZINGIBER OFFINALE ): Indigenous to South China is the underground rhizome of a reedlike plant that has fibrous roots and produces the familiar hot, fragrant spice indispensable in Asian cooking. Its intensity varies depending on how it is prepared, so we are sure to specify whether it should be peeled or unpeeled, chopped, minced sliced or julienned. Look for firm, unwrinkled roots and store in a dry airy place.

LAKSA LEAF, RAU RAM, OR VIETNAMESE CILANTRO (PERSICARIA ODORATA): Native to Southeast Asia, with its minty, lemoned-up cilantro notes, laksa leaf is so called for its indispensable use in laksa (Malaysian noodle soups). Laksa leaf grows best in warm and wet environments. Look for highly aromatic leaves that are smooth and dark green and attached to a thick, juicy stem. It is found in wellstocked Southeast Asian grocers. We use laksa leaf in rempah and as a garnish in our Malaysian-Cristanginspired dishes like “Portuguese” Barbecued Seafood with Big Ben’s Sambal.

LEMONGRASS (CYMBOPOGON CITRATUS): This long, grass-like, fibrous, and pale green herb is native to Southeast Asia and has a distinctive lemon aroma. Quintessential to much of Southeast Asian cuisine, lemongrass is found in curries, soups, and teas and is a major player in rempah (spice paste) of Malaysia. Trim the base and remove the tough outer layers. Usually lemongrass is sliced or finely chopped before it is blended with other herbs and spices. Look for heavy, long, relatively green stalks with chubby bulbs.

LIME LEAVES (CITRUS HYSTRIX): Dark green and waxy to the touch, lime leaves can be found fresh at Southeast Asian markets. They should be used immediately or frozen to preserve their aroma and flavor. They can be used whole or ground. If grinding, remove the center vein and blend in a spice grinder until it is finely chopped. Lime leaf has a distinct aroma, adding an unparalleled brightness and freshness to dishes like our Brinjal Sambal.

LOTUS ROOT (NELUMBO NUCIFERA): This is the edible rhizome of the lotus plant that grows in water. All parts of the plant, from the root to the young flower stalks and seeds, are edible, with the root being the most common. The lotus root has a crunchy and crisp texture when cooked. When buying lotus root, look for firm, heavy roots with smooth, clean, unblemished skins and no bruising or soft spots. Lotus root is extremely versatile when it comes to cooking: it can be sliced thin and deep-fried like a chip, stir-fried with other crisp vegetables, or even blanched and braised, like in Charlie’s Peanuts.

OKRA (ABELMOSCHUS ESCULENTUS): Also known as bhindi or lady’s fingers in reference to its long, elegant shape, or quiabo in Portuguese, this vegetable of African origin is commonly used in Brazilian, Macanese, and Indian cuisines. This narrow, five-sided, slightly fuzzy seedpod contains rows of edible white seeds that release a mucilaginous texture when cut or cooked. Due to this quality, okra is often used to thicken stews and soups. With a subtle flavor, okra benefits from being cooked with strong and/or spicy ingredients, such as in our Shrimp Curry with Okra and Tomato.

SHALLOTS (ALLIUM CEPA): Known in Macanese cooking as cebolas secas, or dry onion, shallots have a sweet strong flavor and contain minimal moisture, making them ideal for our rempah (spice paste) and as a fried garnish. Keep shallots in a dry airy place for up to a month.

TURMERIC (CURCUMA LONGA): Native to India, which produces nearly the entire world’s crop, turmeric is a very important spice that dates back about four thousand years in India. Turmeric, characterized by its tuberous rhizome, has an earthy, peppery, and slightly bitter flavor with a vivid yellow color. In Macau, turmeric is often called açafrão (saffron in Portuguese) as it was used as an alternative to the far more expensive saffron because it imparts a similar yellow color and fragrance. Turmeric is an essential ingredient found in many of our recipes both as a fresh ingredient, and as a ground, dried spice for marinades. When buying fresh turmeric, look for firm pieces and avoid soft, dried, or shriveled ones. Store fresh turmeric in an airtight container for a week or two in the fridge, or up to several months in the freezer. 

Bonus recipe from The Adventures of Fat Rice:

Camarãoes com Caril de Quiabo e Tomate (Shrimp Curry with Okra and Tomato)
 
Serves 2 as a main, 4 in a multi-dish meal
 
This classic Macanese curry was most likely borne of Goa, India, and brought along as okra made its way to South China and Southeast Asia. As with the empada, this recipe was inspired by a curried shrimp-daikon dish prepared for us by Florita Alves during a visit to Macau. Her expert technique and her husband Vitor’s homemade curry paste made it one of our favorite dishes of that trip. In our version, we swap the daikon for okra, then make a robust and spicy broth from the shrimp shells, our rendition of Vitor’s curry paste, and tomato, all cooked down to a rich gravy. In the wintertime, substitute poached daikon for the okra, just like we had at Florita and Vitor’s house. Serve with Coconut Rice or Papo Seco.
 
12 large head-on, shell-on shrimp
 
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
 
1  1⁄2 cups water
 
2 teaspoons salt, plus more to taste
 
1⁄2 red onion, thinly sliced
 
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
 
4 tablespoons Vitor’s Curry Paste (recipe available in book, page 278)
 
1⁄2 cup whole peeled tomatoes
 
8 ounces okra
 
Freshly ground black pepper
 
1⁄2 teaspoon sugar
 
5 cherry tomatoes, halved
 
Juice of 1⁄2 lime
 
Small handful fresh cilantro
 
Peel and devein the shrimp, reserving the heads and shells. Set the shrimp aside.
 
Heat a heavy pot over high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the reserved shrimp heads and shells. Use a wooden spoon to continually mash up the heads and sauté until pink and browned, about 5 minutes. Add the water, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to simmer for 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, strain, and set aside.
 
Heat a wide sauté pan over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, then the season the shrimp with salt and lay evenly in the pan. Sear on one side for 1 minute, then fl and cook on the other side for 1 more minute. Focus on a good sear—don’t worry about cooking them all the way through here.
 
Remove to a plate and add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add the curry paste and reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring, to bloom the spices for 1 minute. Add the reserved shrimp stock, the salt, and the whole peeled tomatoes; smash the tomatoes up with a wooden spoon. Bring to a simmer, then add the okra and a couple cranks of black pepper. Stir and cook for 5 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to maintain a steady simmer, until the okra is tender but still vibrant. Add the sugar, cherry tomatoes, lime juice, and reserved shrimp and heat through, about 1 minute to finish cooking the shrimp. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then transfer to a serving platter, garnish with the cilantro, and serve.
 
Excerpted from The Adventures of Fat Rice: Recipes from the Chicago Restaurant Inspired by Macao. Copyright © 2016 by by Abraham Conlon and Adrienne Lo. Reprinted by permission of Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC.
 
Photos by Dan Goldberg


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