Rabu, 14 Maret 2018

How a Trained Chef Feeds a Family

Book cover of once upon a chefAs a recent college graduate, it only took Jenn Segal a few months to realize corporate life was not for her. Instead, she headed off to culinary school, where she learned the ropes of seasoning and technique, and then began working in reputed restaurants. But after starting a family, Jenn wasn't thrilled about the prospect of a restaurant schedule. So she turned her love of food and cooking into a popular blog, Once Upon a Chef, which combined the tips and tricks she picked up in culinary school and restaurant kitchens with her love of fresh, easy home cooking that families love.

In her new book, Once Upon a Chef, the Cookbook: 100 Tested, Perfected, and Family-Approved Recipes, Jenn tackles questions like how much salt to use, how to repurpose leftovers, and how to make one meal feed a family with multiple dietary considerations and preferences. Listen to the interview with Jenn in the embedded audio player on this page, and check out Jenn's Peruvian Chicken recipe below. 

Peruvian Chicken with Green Sauce

Serve with basmati cilantro rice pilaf and roasted corn on the cob with lime-basil butter.

This is my take on pollo a la brasa, the delicious spit roasted chicken made popular by so many Peruvian restaurants. The chicken emerges from the oven tender, juicy, and crisp skinned.

But what makes it truly special is the accompanying green sauce (recipe courtesy of my friend Kenji López Alt, managing culinary director at Serious Eats and author of The Food Lab). The sauce is spicy, creamy, and downright addictive—you can put it on virtually everything, and it even makes a fabulous dip or salad dressing.

Serves 4

FOR THE CHICKEN

  • 3 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 cup [60 ml] fresh lime juice, from 2 limes
  • 4 large garlic cloves, roughly chopped
  • 1 Tbsp kosher salt
  • 2 tsp paprika
  • 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 Tbsp ground cumin
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • 2 tsp sugar
  • One 4-lb [1.8-kg] whole chicken

FOR THE GREEN SAUCE

  • 3 jalapeño peppers, seeded if desired (I use about half the seeds for a medium-hot sauce) and roughly chopped
  • 1 cup [40 g] packed fresh cilantro leaves
  • 2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 cup [120 g] mayonnaise, best quality such as Hellmann’s, Best Foods, or Duke’s
  • 1/4 cup [60 g] sour cream
  • 1 Tbsp fresh lime juice, from 1 lime
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1. To make the chicken: In a blender or mini food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine all of the ingredients except the chicken and blend until smooth. Remove the giblets from the inside of the chicken and discard, then pat the outside of the chicken dry with paper towels; place in a bowl, breast‑side up with the legs facing you. Using the handle of a wooden spoon or your fingers, loosen the skin from the flesh over the breasts and legs, being careful not to tear the skin or push all the way through (you want the marinade to stay inside the bird). Spoon about two‑thirds of the marinade evenly underneath the skin, and spread the remaining one‑third evenly over the skin. Marinate the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours or up to 24 hours.

2. Adjust the oven rack to the lower‑middle position and preheat the oven to 425°F [220°C]. Line a roasting pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil for easy cleanup. Spray a roasting rack (preferably a V‑shape) with nonstick cooking spray and place the chicken on top, breast‑side up. Tie the legs together with kitchen string. Roast for 20 minutes, until the skin is golden. Turn the heat down to 375°F [190°C] and continue to roast for about an hour and 10 minutes more, or until the juices run clear when you cut between the leg and thigh. (Keep an eye on it—if it’s browning too quickly, cover the bird loosely with foil.) Tent the chicken with foil and let it rest for about 20 minutes.

3. To make the sauce: In a blender or food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine all of the ingredients except the oil and blend into a smooth sauce. With the motor running, open the lid and slowly drizzle in the oil. It will seem very runny at this point, but don’t worry, it will thicken up as it sits. Transfer the sauce to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve. The sauce will keep nicely in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

4. To serve, tilt the chicken over the roasting pan to release the juices, then transfer to a cutting board. Carve the chicken and serve with the green sauce.

Heads Up

Allow at least 6 hours for the chicken to marinate.

Sourcing Savvy

In the poultry department, you’re likely to find birds labeled “broilers,” “roasters,” and “fryers.” These labels are based on the weight of the bird, and are meant to suggest a method of cooking. This recipe calls for a 4lb [1.8kg] chicken, which is typically considered a “fryer.” This might seem strange since you’re roasting, but don’t worry about it—all of these chickens can be used in recipes interchangeably.

Reprinted from Once Upon a Chef by Jennifer Segal with permission by Chronicle Books, 2018


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